Game of Life
Created by lady ada
https://learn.adafruit.com/game-of-life
Last updated on 2021-11-15 05:57:58 PM EST
©Adafruit Industries
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Table of Contents
Overview
3
• Blinky fun cellular automata
• Introduction
3
3
Make it!
3
• Ready?
3
Preparation
4
• Prep
• Tools
4
4
Parts list
7
• Bill of Material
• Schematic
• Optional parts
7
13
13
Solder it!
• Make it
Connecting
•
•
•
•
•
•
Modularity
Older and Newer versions
Orientation
Method 1: Solder it
Method 2: Plug & Play
Make a cube!
16
16
30
30
30
31
31
34
35
Use it!
41
•
•
•
•
•
41
42
42
42
42
User manual
Powering your kit from AA batteries or 3V DC power supply
Powering your kit from 9V batteries or a 9-12V DC power supply
Turning on/off
Resetting
Download
• Schematic and Layout
• Firmware
42
42
43
Buy Kit
43
Forums
43
©Adafruit Industries
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Overview
Blinky fun cellular automata
Introduction
In 1970, John Conway came up with a 1-player game called Game of Life (https://
adafru.it/c1W). The Game of Life is a mathematical game that simulates 'colonies' that
grow or die based on how crowded or lonely they are and is known for the way it
creates a beautiful organic display out of randomness.
Here is a design for a simple electronic project that plays Conway's Game of Life.
Make one kit and keep it on your desk, or attach multiple kit modules together to
create a large display.
Originally created by Dropout Design, this revision adds a few extra features. You can
build the boards from the schematic and open source firmware, or buy full kits from
the Adafruit (https://adafru.it/c1Y) or Make Magazine online shops. The kit is very easy
to make and an excellent first electronics project. It is perfect for workshops since at
the end everyone can connect their completed module (https://adafru.it/c1Z) together.
Features:
• Each kit displays a 4x4 grid (16 LEDs)
• Connect as many kits as youd like, in any configuration, to create a larger game
board.
• Runs off of 2 AA batteries, but can be easily modified to run off of USB or wallwart power.
• On/Off button to save power, also for resetting the display.
• Automatically resets if the colony has died or stagnated (regeneration).
• Backwards compatible with older versions.
Make it!
Ready?
This is a very easy kit to make, just go through each of these steps to build the kit:
1. Tools and preparation (https://adafru.it/c20)
©Adafruit Industries
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2. Check the parts list (https://adafru.it/c21)
3. Assemble the kit (https://adafru.it/c22)
4. Connect modules together (https://adafru.it/c1Z)
Preparation
Prep
Learn how to solder with tons of tutorials! (https://adafru.it/aTk)
Don't forget to learn how to use your multimeter too! (https://adafru.it/aOy)
Tools
There are a few tools that are required for assembly. None of these tools are
included. If you don't have them, now would be a good time to borrow or purchase
them. They are very very handy whenever assembling/fixing/modifying electronic
devices! I provide links to buy them, but of course, you should get them wherever is
most convenient/inexpensive. Many of these parts are available in a place like Radio
Shack or other (higher quality) DIY electronics stores.
©Adafruit Industries
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Soldering iron
Any entry level 'all-in-one' soldering iron
that you might find at your local hardware
store should work. As with most things in
life, you get what you pay for.
Upgrading to a higher end soldering iron
setup, like the Hakko FX-888 that we
stock in our store (http://adafru.it/180),
will make soldering fun and easy.
Do not use a "ColdHeat" soldering iron!
They are not suitable for delicate
electronics work and can damage the kit
(see here (https://adafru.it/aOo)).
Click here to buy our entry level
adjustable 30W 110V soldering
iron (http://adafru.it/180).
Click here to upgrade to a Genuine
Hakko FX-888 adjustable temperature
soldering iron. (http://adafru.it/303)
Solder
You will want rosin core, 60/40 solder.
Good solder is a good thing. Bad solder
leads to bridging and cold solder joints
which can be tough to find.
Click here to buy a spool of leaded
solder (recommended for
beginners) (http://adafru.it/145).
Click here to buy a spool of lead-free
solder (http://adafru.it/734).
©Adafruit Industries
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Multimeter
You will need a good quality basic
multimeter that can measure voltage and
continuity.
Click here to buy a basic
multimeter. (http://adafru.it/71)
Click here to buy a top of the line
multimeter. (http://adafru.it/308)
Click here to buy a pocket
multimeter. (http://adafru.it/850)
Flush Diagonal Cutters
You will need flush diagonal cutters to
trim the wires and leads off of
components once you have soldered
them in place.
Click here to buy our favorite
cutters (http://adafru.it/152).
©Adafruit Industries
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Solder Sucker
Strangely enough, that's the technical
term for this desoldering vacuum tool.
Useful in cleaning up mistakes, every
electrical engineer has one of these on
their desk.
Click here to buy a one (http://adafru.it/
148).
Helping Third Hand With Magnifier
Not absolutely necessary but will make
things go much much faster, and it will
make soldering much easier.
Pick one up here (http://adafru.it/291).
Parts list
Bill of Material
Check to make sure your kit comes with the following parts. Sometimes we make
mistakes so double check everything and email support@adafruit.com if you need
replacements!
Image
Name Description
IC1
©Adafruit Industries
Part #
D
Microcontroller
(preprogrammed
D
ATmega48v-10PU
when purchased
M
in a kit)
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©Adafruit Industries
IC1'
28-pin socket
Generic
D
M
C3
Ceramic 0.1uF
capacitor (104)
Generic
D
M
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R1R16
©Adafruit Industries
100 ohm 1/4W
5% resistor
(brown, black,
brown, gold)
Generic
D
M
LED15mm Green LED Generic
LED16
D
M
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ON/
OFF
©Adafruit Industries
6mm tact switch
button
Omron B3F-1000 D
(or equiv)
M
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BATT
©Adafruit Industries
2 x AA battery
holder
Generic
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D
M
PCB
©Adafruit Industries
A
I
Circuit board
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Schematic
Click on the schematic for the higher-res image.
Optional parts
If you're planning to make a really large array, or you want to make this kit work with
the older Game-of-Life kits that had 9V battery inputs then here are extra parts you
may need.
Image
Name
Description
Part #
Distributor
5V regulator
IC2
part #7805
TO-220
package
Generic Digikey
7805
Mouser
For olderversion
compatibility
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100uF/6V
capacitor
C1
Digikey
If you're using Generic
Mouser
a 7805, this
will help power
stability.
Ceramic 0.1uF
capacitor (104)
C2
©Adafruit Industries
Digikey
If you're using Generic
Mouser
a 7805, this
will help power
stability.
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4-pin right
angle male
header.
For easily
connecting
multiple kits
N,W,S,E together. The
Generic Digikey
purchase links
are for
'breakaway'
36-pin header,
so just buy one
and break off
4-pin pieces.
N,W,S,E
4-pin right
angle female
header.
For easily
connecting
multiple kits.
Generic Digikey
6-pin header
ICSP
©Adafruit Industries
For
Digikey
Generic
reprogramming
Mouser
chip with new
firmware.
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Solder it!
Make it
Open up the bag of parts and check that
you have all the components.
The Bill of Materials (parts list) (https://
adafru.it/c21) page has a detailed list of
everything you should have.
Take the PCB and place it in a vise or
other holder so that you can easily place
and solder parts.
Heat up your soldering iron to 700degF
and wet the sponge. Clean the tip if
necessary. Make sure you have all your
tools!
The first step is to solder in the resistors.
The resistor is the tan-with-stripes things,
they're probably on tape as that's how
they come from the factory. Remove the
tape and bend the resistors into staples
as shown.
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The resistors are named R1 thru R16.
Placing them on the PCB is easy, just
look for the image on the PCB that
matches the shape of the resistor.
Resistors are non-polarized that means
you can stick them in 'either way' and
they'll work just fine.
Lets start with one resistor, place a
resistor into the location labeled R1 and
make sure it sits flat against the PCB,
then bend the wires out so that you can
turn over the circuit board without the
resistor falling out
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Do the same for the other wire.
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Put down the iron and pick up the
diagonal cutters. Using the cutters, clip
the wires of the resistor right above the
joint.
Repeat for all 16 resistors.
I'll show soldering all of the resistors at
once, but of course you can do as many
or few at once as you'd like.
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Solder and clip all of the resistors.
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Next we're going to place the ceramic
capacitor C3 and the wire jumper for IC2.
This kit was designed to be backwards
compatible with the Dropout Design
version which had a 5V regulator and ran
off of a 9V battery or wall supply. If you're
planning to use this kit with the older
version, make sure you use a 7805 in
IC2. For these instructions I'm going to
assume that you're not going to do that.
Simply insert the small yellow capacitor
into the location named C3. Ceramic
capacitors are not polarized so you can
place it 'either way.'
For IC2 we're going to jumper the chip.
Use a small piece of wire such as one cut
from the resistors, bend it into a staple
and thread it through the two outer pins
of IC2. (See the image left). Make sure
the wire doesnt touch the middle pad.
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Solder the jumper wire and the capacitor.
Clip the extra wire off when done.
Next we're going to solder in the socket.
A chip socket is used to protect the chip
and also lets you replace it if it gets
damaged somehow.
The socket has a little note in one end,
make sure this matches with the little
notch in the silkscreened PCB image. In
the picture shown, the notch is on the
left.
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The socket has short legs so it's more
likely to slip than a resistor. The easiest
way to solder the socket is to hold it
against the PCB with one finger (or tape)
then solder in two points on opposite
sides. Once you've got it tacked, solder
in the remaining pins.
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Next are the LEDs. LEDs, unlike resistors,
are polarized and must be placed
correctly or they won't light up. One leg
of the LED is slightly longer than the
other. This is the positive (+) leg. If you
look at the image on the PCB, you'll note
that one side has a + next to it, this tells
you how to orient the LED. Make sure the
long lead goes in the hole marked +.
Place the LED flat against the circuit
board and bend the leads out.
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Solder both leads of the LED.
Clip the excess leads.
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Repeat for all 16 LEDs.
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Place the ON/OFF/Reset button. The
button is non-polar. The button will snap
in and should sit flat against the PCB.
Solder in all four pins of the button. The
leads are pretty short so you shouldn't
have to clip them.
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Next it's time to insert the microcontroller
that does all the hard work of calculating
the game and displaying LEDs. Chips
come from the factory with their legs
angled out, so press against a flat table
top so that the legs are straight and
parallel.
Then insert the chip into the socket. The
chip must be placed correctly, make sure
the notch at the end of the chip matches
the notch in the silkscreen of the PCB.
This should be the same as the notch in
the socket. In case you placed the socket
wrong, make sure the notch is at the
same end that has the rectangular grid of
6 holes marked ICSP.
Next we'll attach the battery back. I'll
show how to shorten the wires which
makes for a slightly neater appearance.
It's completely not necessary though.
To shorten the wires, clip them about 2"
from the pack.
You'll have to tin the ends if you clipped
the wires. Heat up the wire and dab
some solder, which should wick into the
wire and keep the strands from flying out.
©Adafruit Industries
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Next, connect up the battery pack. The
red wire of the pack goes to the hole
marked with a +, the black wire goes to
ground, marked with a -.
Solder in the two wires.
Time to test! Place two AA batteries
(rechargables or alkalines) into the pack
and watch the Game of Life start playing.
If you press the ON/OFF button you
should see a checkerboard pattern.
©Adafruit Industries
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Time to wrap it up. Remove one side of
paper from the sticky foam, place it in the
center of the battery holder. Then
remove the other side.
Stick the battery pack onto the back of
the PCB, near the bottom. That way the
weight of the batteries will act as a stand
so that the kit can sit on your desk!
Now go read the user manual....
Connecting
Modularity
There are tons of Game of Life kits out there but what is cool about this design is that
you can plug together multiple boards to create a mega-display! Power and
communications is passed from board to board, so the whole thing updates at once.
Older and Newer versions
If you are connecting to an older version (v1.2 or less) of the board, with a 7805, you
will have to solder in a 7805 into your kit in location IC2. Otherwise the 9V DC power
will fry your GoL module!
For these instructions, I will assume you are only connecting v1.3 or higher (Adafruit
design) kits together. If there's a button in your kit, then it's a v1.3 or higher kit.
©Adafruit Industries
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Orientation
The modules must be connected in the correct orientation. Each module has 4 'ports'
labelled North, South, East and West. To connect a module to another, make sure that
East connects to West or North connects to South! Another way of saying it is, make
use the large Make: logo is always the same direction.
Method 1: Solder it
The easiest way to connect two modules together is to first line them up next to each
other.
Then bend a leftover small piece of wire into a staple.
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Thread it through the adjacent holes, then solder to make a connection to both
boards.
Then turn over and solder the other side too. This is a permanent connection, so
make sure to use lots of solder on both sides to get a nice strong connection.
You can also do it without wires, just put a blob of solder on both sides.
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Then drag the soldering iron between the two boards, and slowly lift it in the middle.
With a little practice you can easily create a solder bridge.
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Don't forget to do the other side too!
Method 2: Plug & Play
Another way to connect them is to use right-angle header to allow plug-and-play of
the modules. One module has a female (receptacle) connector. The other has a male
(plug) connector. Check the parts (https://adafru.it/c21) page for links on where to buy
right angle header.
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If you use header, make sure it looks like the image below, if everyone sticks to this
convention you'll be able to connect up to any other kit!
Make a cube!
If you have 5 or 6 GoL boards, you can make a funky cube. First, assemble 5 or 6
boards.
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Place the first board in a vise and start with the North port.
Put plenty of solder on the first tab.
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Solder one of the excess wire bits onto it.
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Get the next board lined up. Make sure you are connecting it to the South port.
Bend the wire down and solder it to the second board.
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Repeat for all 4 tabs.
Test the two boards by touching the battery case to the + and - on one of the boards.
The game should play on both boards.
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Connect a third board. The trick to knowing how to orient boards is that you can
always connect North and East & South and West ports together. In this case we
connect West and North of the new board to the existing structure.
Test the cube after each new board to make sure you've got it on right.
©Adafruit Industries
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When you're done you can attach the battery pack pack and stick it onto the inside.
Use it!
User manual
This is a very short manual because the kit is very easy to use!
©Adafruit Industries
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Powering your kit from AA batteries or 3V DC power
supply
This version of the GoL kit requires between 3 and 5V DC to run. That means you
can't run it off of a 9V battery. You can, however, run it off of 2 batteries or a USB
cable! Any kind of AA battery, rechargable or alkaline, is just fine. If the kit gets dim,
just recharge your batteries. It should last for about 100 hours on one set of fresh
batteries! If you turn the kit off when not in used, it will last even longer, of course.
Powering your kit from 9V batteries or a 9-12V DC power
supply
If you'd like to run the kit off a 9V-12V DC wall adapter or a 9V battery, you'll need to
place a standard 7805 voltage regulator in location IC2 and remove the jumper wire.
If you have multiple kits connected together, each one will need a 7805. See the parts
list for where to buy a 7805.
Turning on/off
There's a little button on each kit which you can use to turn it on or off. This will save
battery when the kit isn't in use. Simply press-and-hold the button for a few seconds.
It should display a checkerboard pattern and then go out. The kit is now off. To turn it
back on simply press the button (you don't have to hold it though) and it will start up
again.
Resetting
If you want to reset the kit (because, say, it gets into a stable pattern and you'd like it
to do something else) simply press the button but don't hold it down.
Download
Schematic and Layout
Schematic is basically the same as the Dropout Design version, except LEDs are now
common cathod and a button has been added. The board layout was redone to allow
using right angle headers and to make assembly a little easier.
Schematic and layout files are at GitHub (https://adafru.it/c23) (CC 2.5 SA-BY) Click Do
wnload Source (https://adafru.it/c24) to grab them.
©Adafruit Industries
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Firmware
The v1.3 firmware, based heavily on the Dropout Design code. Added:
• Supports a On/Off/Reset button
• Auto-reset on static-image
• Slightly slower delay between steps
• LEDs are common cathode
Download from GitHub (https://adafru.it/c23), released under GPL. Click Download
Source (https://adafru.it/c24) to grab them.
Buy Kit
Buy Kit (https://adafru.it/c1Y)
Forums
Forums (https://adafru.it/forums)
©Adafruit Industries
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