Adafruit Qualia High Res Displayport
Desktop Monitor
Created by lady ada
https://learn.adafruit.com/qualia-high-res-displayport-desktop-monitor
Last updated on 2021-11-15 06:09:32 PM EST
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Table of Contents
Overview
3
• Learn more!
5
Assembly
6
• Tools needed:
• Let’s build it!
6
8
How To Use
15
DisplayPort Connection
16
Power Connection
19
Backlight Control
21
• How to control the backlight
22
Downloads
•
•
•
•
Datasheets
Design Files
Schematic
Firmware
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22
23
23
24
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Overview
Add a glorious 2048x1536 retina-blasting, ultra-high pixel density, IPS display to any
computer with a Thunderbolt/DisplayPort port. This product comes with a new 9.7"
diagonal TFT display module (the same one used in the iPad 3 & 4), along with our
custom made driver board, a stand-up monitor enclosure kit, 10' DisplayPort cable and
9V power adapter.
The driver board is a work of art (it was designed by resident engineer KTOWN) - and
we use the really awesome LT3754 as a 12-channel constant current driver with
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individual backlight string channel control (https://adafru.it/d8V). This gives the
backlight perfect consistency over any usage or temperature range. A ATtiny85
handles the backlight dimming and soft on/off, so you can PWM the backlight over a
range to get the look you want.
Comes with a display panel already attached, tested and ready to go. The plastic
enclosure kit takes 20 minutes to put together using only a small screwdriver and will
protect your display. Plug in the power and connect the DisplayPort cable. Ta-da
display working immediately! No drivers, soldering, configuration or other converters
required.
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Use as a main screen or even better, as a secondary monitor. Great for photo or video
editing - you can use a large main monitor for frame-by-frame editing and then
preview on the smaller side frame. Or keep your email or dashboard notifications on
the side. Heck, web-devs will want to use it to preview what their sites will look like
on a "Retina" display. The 9.7" screen is small enough to keep out of the way.
Learn more!
This project is based on the awesome analysis done by Mike's Mods, check out his
webpages for tons more details! (https://adafru.it/d8Y)
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Assembly
Before commencing assembly, confirm your kit contains all the following parts:
• LCD panel with Driver board attached
• 9V switching power supply
• DisplayPort cable
• Thirteen (13) laser-cut pieces
• Twelve (12) #4-40 x 1/2" nylon screws w/nuts
• Four (4) #4-40 x 5/8" nylon screws w/nuts (a little longer than the 1/2" ones)
• Four (4) #2-56 x 1/4" screws w/nuts (these are much smaller and thinner)
Tools needed:
• Small screwdriver
• Optional: masking tape is very helpful for holding screws temporarily, but is not
absolutely required.
The flexible cable that joins the LCD to the driver board is delicate. Some steps
require bending it in one direction or another. Work slowly and methodically so
as not to damage it.
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Start by peeling the backing paper off
both sides of all the laser-cut parts. It’s
easiest to start at a corner, catching the
edge of the paper with a fingernail.
The laser-cutting process sometimes leaves a little paper soot at the edges. If you
like, you can wash these off with soap and water, just be absolutely certain that all the
parts are completely dry before proceeding!
Optional: testing the LCD and driver
board before assembly may avoid some
troubleshooting later. Read ahead to the
“How to Use” page for guidance.
Warning: this requires straightening the
flex cable. Be extremely careful not to
pull or strain this delicate part.
Rather than placing the driver board to
the side, you can keep it behind the
display, but place something like an
index card or piece of paper between the
two to prevent an electrical short.
You may want to remove the protective
film at this time as well, pull on the yellow
tab to carefully remove the film
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Let’s build it!
Locate these four laser-cut parts. For the
sake of later explanation, let’s refer to
these (top-to-bottom) as the “bow tie,”
“legs” and “cross brace.”
The bow tie and cross brace have no up
or down, left or right; they can be
installed any which way. The legs have a
specific orientation, but there is no “right
leg” or “left leg” — they’re
interchangeable.
Start by picking up the cross brace…
This kit uses t-slot construction. Slide a
nut into the cross part of the T at either
end of the cross brace, then hold it in
place between finger and thumb.
If you need an extra hand in the steps
that follow, the nut can also be held in
place temporarily with a bit of masking
tape.
Slots in the leg pieces are “keyed” to fit
into the tabs on the cross brace. Position
a leg using these tabs and slots, then
install a #4-40 1/2" screw through the
middle, meeting up with the nut held in
the cross brace.
You do not need to crank these screws
down. Finger tight is fine for now.
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Repeat with the second leg at the
opposite end of the cross brace. Both
legs should be oriented the same way, as
seen here.
The “bow tie” now joins with the legs,
using the same t-slot technique with four
#4-40 1/2" screws and nuts.
The bow tie is symmetrical, so you can
install it any which way.
Use a screwdriver to gently tighten all the screws in place now. (You do not need to
crank these down hard, or else you’ll crack the plastic!)
The rear stand is complete. Set it aside and we’ll return to it later.
Here’s the front bezel. Like the bow tie
before, this piece is completely
symmetrical; there is no front or back, left
or right.
However, once assembled the display
definitely takes on a top and bottom. Pick
one of the longer edges (either one) and
call it “top.” This is important for the
placement of the four longer screws (5/8"
instead of 1/2"). The long screw positions
are indicated at left. All the other holes
will receive 1/2" screws.
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Insert a screw into each hole (1/2" or 5/8",
as appropriate to the above diagram).
The bezel will need to be flipped over
later, so as you place each screw, secure
it with a bit of tape, or you can use the
nuts temporarily to keep the screws from
sliding out (you’ll need to remove these
nuts later).
Once all the screws are placed, set the
bezel face down on your work surface.
Turn it so the “top” (with the longer
screws) is at the…well…top.
If you used nuts instead of tape, you can
remove these now (keeping the screws in
place).
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Unlike most of the other parts, the four Lshaped corner supports are all unique
and have a very specific orientation. Each
is etched with a letter: A, B, C and D.
Slide each of the corner supports over
the screws in the correct positions. The
etched letter should be visible and in the
correct orientation for reading. A at the
top left, B at the top right, C at the
bottom left, D at the bottom right.
The upper and lower supports each
share “half a screw” in common. This is
normal.
The LCD can now be placed face-down
between the corner supports, and all the
various protuberances should fit neatly
into corresponding cutouts around the
perimeter. It may need a little wiggle to
make this happen.
If anything seems to require force, stop!
Make sure all the pieces are installed in
the correct positions and alignments.
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Another layer of edge pieces now fit over
the screws and hold the screen from the
back. These parts are symmetrical left to
right and can go either way, but the top
and bottom are unique. The wider edge
should go at the bottom, and the right
and left pieces should be flipped as
needed to match.
With the edge pieces in place, six nuts
can be installed over the shorter (1/2")
screws, in the positions marked here. The
four longer screws should not receive
nuts yet!
You can leave these nuts just “finger
tight” for now. We’ll make a pass later
after everything’s assembled.
Now let’s go back to the rear stand that you assembled earlier…
The “bow tie” has eight holes in it, but
we’ll only be using four. Looking at the
flat side (the legs should poke out the
back, not forward), install the four tiny
#2-56 screws in the positions indicated
here.
The extra holes allow this piece to be
flipped either way in the earlier assembly
steps; less aggravating that way.
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To reiterate a prior point: these screws
should sit flush, pointing back, not
forward. Getting this wrong will break the
LCD!
As with the main bezel, a little tape over
the heads of these screws helps keep
them in place.
This is the tricky part. Be careful with that flex cable!
Set the “bow tie” carefully near the top of
the screen. Pick up the driver board
and…being very mindful of the flex cable,
don’t tear or pull it out…lower it on to the
four small screws on the bow tie. Then
add a nut for each.
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Now flip the bow tie / support over,
remove the tape and tighten the four
small screws.
You’ll need to twist the flex cable a bit to
do this. That’s fine…work slowly and don’t
kink or jerk it.
Carefully turn the stand over and lower it
onto the four 5/8" screws. Add a nut to
each and finger tighten.
Stand the screen up and remove the tape
pieces (if used) from the front bezel. Give
it a very gentle tap on the desk to make
sure everything’s seated, then work
around the perimeter tightening these
screws. Just snug them down a little…
don’t go crazy or you’ll crack the plastic.
You can connect the power and
DisplayPort cables now if you like,
routing them under the cross brace piece
or out either side.
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Now you’re ready to fire it up! Read on.
The resolution is intense!
How To Use
Using the Qualia display is super easy, similar to any other monitor you've used. You
will need a 9 or 12V DC power supply that can provide at least 1000mA (1A) of current,
a DisplayPort cable and a computer with a DisplayPort
Read the sections to learn all about your new miniature monitor!
• How to make a DisplayPort connection (https://adafru.it/d9w)
• How to power your monitor (https://adafru.it/d9x)
• How to control the Backlight (https://adafru.it/d9y)
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DisplayPort Connection
This monitor is only for use with DisplayPort native computers. DisplayPort is not
the same as HDMI or DVI!
If you don't have a DisplayPort on your computer or laptop, check out our HDMI/VGA
display offerings (https://adafru.it/d8R)
Just about every single Apple computer and laptop has DisplayPort capability, often a
Mini DisplayPort connector instead of the full size version. Many newer PCs do as well
but make sure to verify before purchasing! DisplayPort connectors looks a lot like
HDMI
This is what a standard DisplayPort connector looks like, with the displayport logo
above (thx wikipedia) (https://adafru.it/d8S)
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This is what a Mini DisplayPort connector looks like (thx wikipedia) (https://adafru.it/
d8T)
Mini and Standard DP are the same, just require different cables. Since most
computers have a mini DisplayPort, we ship with a Mini type cable
Our cable has classic DisplayPort on the left, and Mini DisplayPort on the right.
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OK plug in your cable so that it snaps in
nicely into the DP connector on the
Qualia driver. It should snap in all the way
Removing a DisplayPort connector is a
little more difficult because the connector
is quite strong. You have to press down
on the cable latch and wiggle-pull it out.
Hold onto the connector with your other
hand to make it easier!
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Power Connection
The Qualia monitor backlight is massive and bright, to drive all those LEDs requires
an external power supply. You can use any 9V to 12V power supply with a 2.1mm/
5.5mm sized barrel jack and center-positive power. The driver uses that voltage to
create the 22V required to drive the backlight LED strings.
We include a 9V power supply that works very well so please use that if you can!
To power up, just plug into the 2.1mm power jack.
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Once plugged in, check that the POWER switch is switched to ON. The power switch
is in the upper right of this photo, next to the UP button
You should see the POWER LED light up when power to the board is working right. If
its not lit, check that your power supply is correct and that the power switch is on.
If you never need to turn off the display completely, switch the power switch to Off
and check that the LED is no longer lit
If you want to take your Qualia on the road, you may find yourself without a power
plug nearby. Unfortunately, the backlight driver for the Qualia display can't run from
5VDC so its not possible to power it from a laptop USB port. However you can use a
8xAA 'power brick' with either Alkaline or Rechargeable batteries.
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Backlight Control
To control the backlight of the display, we use the awesome LT3754 LED driver from
Linear Tech (https://adafru.it/d8V). The great thing about this driver is it is a cross
between an efficient boost convert and a fully-matched constant-current LED driver.
The boost converter half can take 9-12VDC and boost it up to ~22VDC and the LED
driver half makes sure that each LED strand is driven with exactly 18.5mA for perfectly
distributed light (which gives better color representation).
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To control the backlight, we use a very tiny microcontroller (the ATtiny85 from AVR)
which listens for button presses and then sends a 4KHz PWM signal to the LT3754 to
tell it how much to dim the display.
How to control the backlight
The backlight is super easy to control. Press the UP or DOWN buttons until you reach
the brightness level you like. If you want to turn off the backlight, press the Backlight
On/Off button. The backlight On/Off is different than the switch. If you turn off just the
backlight, the computer will still recognize a monitor is there, you just wont be able to
see the graphics since there's no backlight. If you turn off the switch the entire
monitor is off, and it wont be recognized by the computer!
When the backlight or monitor is turned off and an on, it will revert to the same
brightness you had before.
Downloads
Datasheets
• LT3754 Datasheet (https://adafru.it/d8W) (LED backlight driver)
• LP097QX1-SPC1 Datasheet (https://adafru.it/d8X) (The raw display itself)
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Design Files
• Frame design file (https://adafru.it/Bp5)
• EagleCAD PCB files on GitHub (https://adafru.it/rDx)
Schematic
In case you're wondering how its made, here is the connections diagram!
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Firmware
There's a tiny bit of firmware on the ATtiny85, you can grab it here:
/* Adafruit Qualia firmware for DisplayPort to LP097QX1 driver board
Basically, a Trinket w/PWM output to the LT backlight driver. :)
Recompile with Adafruit Trinket 8MHz supported Arduino IDE.
Upload w/USBtinyISP
*/
#include "EEPROM.h"
#define
#define
#define
#define
led 1
upbutton 4
downbutton 3
onoffbutton 0
int16_t brightness;
// range from 0 to 255 (0 is off)
boolean on = true;
boolean dirtee = false;
// whether the display is 'on' or not
// is the EEPROM brightness wrong?
void setBrightness(uint8_t b) {
OCR1A = b;
}
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void setup() {
digitalWrite(led, LOW);
pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
// way faster than analogWrite, 15.625Khz!
OCR1C = 255;
OCR1A = 0;
TCCR1 = _BV(CS10) | _BV(CS11) | _BV(PWM1A) | _BV(COM1A1);
// read the eeprom location 0!
brightness = EEPROM.read(0);
// slowly fade up!
for (uint8_t i=0; i < brightness; i++) {
setBrightness(i);
delay(10);
}
pinMode(upbutton, INPUT);
digitalWrite(upbutton, HIGH);
pinMode(downbutton, INPUT);
digitalWrite(downbutton, HIGH);
pinMode(onoffbutton, INPUT);
digitalWrite(onoffbutton, HIGH);
}
void loop() {
if (on) {
while (! digitalRead(downbutton)) {
// Don't let it get dimmer than 2/255
if (brightness > 2) {
brightness --;
setBrightness(brightness);
dirtee = true;
}
delay(10);
}
while (! digitalRead(upbutton)) {
if (brightness != 255) {
brightness ++;
setBrightness(brightness);
dirtee = true;
}
delay(10);
}
// once they release the button, write the new brightness to EEPROM
if (dirtee) {
EEPROM.write(0, brightness);
dirtee = false;
}
}
if (! digitalRead(onoffbutton)) {
delay(10);
while (! digitalRead(onoffbutton));
delay(10);
if (on) {
// quickly turn off
setBrightness(0);
delay(100);
on = false;
} else {
// slowly fade up!
for (uint8_t i=0; i < brightness; i++) {
setBrightness(i);
delay(10);
}
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// give me a break to avoid any bouncing
delay(100);
// we're on
on = true;
}
}
}
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